Archive for the ‘iran’ Category

Hamadan

Tuesday, March 13th, 2007

Click here for a slideshow from our trip to Hamadan

Where are you from?” The traffic cop asked, leaning into the window.

“America,” I answered.

“No that is not possible,” he laughed.

“They’re Italian,” a passerby offered.

Habbakuk's tomb in HamadanMy travelling companion was exhausted after driving at night behind long lines of trucks on the 2-lane highway between Tuyserkan and Hamadan. “Just tell us how to get to the Ferdosi Square,” she said.

Eventually we wandered into our hotel — what was it’s name? — on Takhti street near Ferdosi Square.

Hamadan is a more interesting place than people give it credit for. For one, the drive to it is stunning. It is easy to imagine silk road travellers coming to this amazing place in the mountains and marveling at its riches: cool summer weather, water, trees, a gentle valley. It is easy to imagine the ancient city from today’s modern city. Ancient ruins pop up in the strangest places. There is the Alavian tomb in a schoolyard. Another tomb sits next to an apartment block.

I enjoyed visiting Avicenna‘s tomb. What an amazing man he was! It is thanks to our philosopher friends Joep and Yeganeh that I know even the small amount I do about Abu Sina / Avicenna.

And, of course, there is the tomb of Mordecai and Esther. I don’t even care if Esther is not buried there. The monument is still great. We had the bad luck to visit it on the Sabbath and on Purim, so the tomb itself was closed.

Many travellers go to Hamadan expecting the ancient city of Ekbatan and are, therefore, disappointed. We went with lower expectations and loved it.

Click here for a slideshow from our trip to Hamadan

What others are saying:

About Hamadan

More about Hamadan
The account of a Russian spelunker about exploring caves near Hamadan
Quotes from Habakkuk
Habakkuk on Wikipedia

Kurdistan and Kermanshah

Monday, March 5th, 2007

Map of IranClick here for the flash slideshow of Kurdistan and here for a slideshow of Kermanshah.

Before flying to Kermanshah, Kamran and I ran into the city’s favorite son, Shahram Nazeri, in a bank on Jordan Street in North Tehran. “Kheli big fan hastam,” (I’m a big fan) I told him. Kamran and I first saw him perform in 1990 at the Brooklyn Academy of Music (BAM: not in Kerman) and then a few months later at Town Hall in Manhattan. He gave me a few tips about Kurdistan and Kermanshah, which I felt was a good omen for our trip.

What a trip! The flight was beautiful enough. We flew beside one snow-covered mountain range after another before coming in for a landing over rolling green fields. The mountains in and around Kermanshah are terrifying. They look as though they were wrenched from the Earth with cataclysmic violence. The clouds that formed around the peaks of the cliffs felt like the remains of dragon fire to me. “I don’t think I could live with these mountains,” I told my friend Kate. “They scare me.”

Kermanshah is on the road to Karbala. It must have been really hopping right after Iraq was invaded when pilgrims from Iran were travelling to Karbala in great numbers.

From Kermanshah, we made a one-day trip into (Iranian) Kurdistan or Kordestan (however you choose to spell it.) The landscape was just awe-inspiring with the first touches of green. We headed for gorgeous Palangan: a village that straddles two sides of a river. There the women were happy to visit with us. We were called over to talk to several groups as they watched their children, wove horse bridles, and chatted.

On the way back, we saw huge lines of cars and trucks backed up at gas stations. Apparently rationing has begun in Kurdistan: mainly to prevent gasoline from being smuggled into Iraq. On top of that, the Iranian government has set up customs patrols on the border between Kermanshah and Kurdistan. Hmmm…

Anyway, click here for the flash slideshow of Kurdistan and here for a slideshow of Kermanshah.


What others are saying:

Blog by the rock climbers at Bisotun (In Persian, but with great photos!)

From Onze Man in Teheran (in Dutch)

From Shiva the Spy: Long Live Kordistan

The nature of Kurdistan
in Persian and English

Bisotun World Heritage Site

From Angus McDowall

Travelling to Kermanshah

Kordestan: Stunning Scenery and Paranoid Police

Review of inscriptions at Taqe (Taghe) Bostan

About Shahram Nazeri (My favorite Iranian male singer):

Buy his music online at Iranmehr.com

Read about him here and here and listen to song samples here.

At The Jazz Breakfast, an album featuring Shahram Nazeri is rated as one of the best of 2006.